The following Report was contained in The Brisbane Courier of 30 October 1883, (p. 3).
TELEGRAPH EXTENSION TO CAPE YORK.
It may be remembered that in May last (1882) Mr. J. R. Bradford was dispatched by the Post and Telegraph Department in charge of a party:
- to examine the country between the Cooktown-Palmerville line and Somerset; and
- to report as to the best route for a telegraph line to the last-named place.
The journey overland from the Laura telegraph station to Somerset occupied seventy-four days, including all stoppages, and it was made under great difficulties, many of the horses having to be abandoned owing to the combined effects of poison plant and scarcity of food. Mr Bradford's diary, which we have kindly been permitted to glance through, contains nothing of general interest except the statement that in crossing the Jardine River, near its junction with the McHenry, Mr Bradford found it a larger stream of water than any he had seen in the north, not excepting the Burdekin.
Mr Bradford also explored along the north-western extremity of the Cape York Peninsula for a site for cable terminus; but the only one to be found near Simpson's Bay was a point from which the bearings of Peak Point, Horn Island, Possession Island and High Island were taken. Throughout the latter part of the journey grass was very scarce. Indications of the presence of blacks were met with, but the natives did not appear to have been troublesome.
We append a condensation of Mr Bradford's report to the Superintendent of Telegraphs on the Cape York extension:
In accordance with instructions received from you, I started from Brisbane on 9th May per Corea, with the greater portion of the equipment required for the outfit of the Cape York expedition. I arrived in Cooktown on 17th May. I forthwith proceeded to make all necessary arrangements for starting from Cooktown with the least possible delay. Owing to a conversation I had with Inspector Fitzgerald (in charge of the police in the Cook district), I felt it my duty to represent to you the necessity for an increase in the strength of my party (originally intended to be four, besides myself). On the receipt of your instructions to engage two additional men, I ordered the extra equipment.
On 6th June, everything being ready, I started from Cooktown, arriving at the Laura Telegraph Station on 12th June. There were various reasons for staying a few days at the Laura (where I received every assistance from Mr Burton), from where I started on 16th June. My original intention had been to leave the Cooktown-Palmerville line at a place known as the Kennedy Bend, but after a perusal of Mr R. L. Jack's reports and an examination of charts kindly lent by him to me, I found that by doing so I should have to cross the abrupt descent of Jessie's Tableland (about 500 ft.) which caused Mr Jack so much trouble on two occasions. Such a barrier would have been an almost insurmountable obstacle to the construction of a telegraph line.
Another reason which induced me to alter my intentions as to the route was the report of large areas of sugar land being taken up on the shores of Princess Charlotte's Bay and northward of that place. I, therefore, concluded that sooner or later telegraphic communication would be demanded by people settling on the eastern coast and I resolved to examine the country for a line which would be as near the eastern seaboard as was practicable. I therefore finally decided to leave the Cooktown-Palmerville line at the old Blacksoil station, or near it. If I had turned off at the Laura there would have been flooded country to cross. An examination of the chart, which I will send you hereafter, will show at a glance that the Normanby, Laura, Hann, and Morehead Rivers and Saltwater Creek all flow close together over the country to the north-east of my route. My desire was to avoid the cliffs of Jessie's Tableland on the south-west and the flooded low lands on the north-east.
I therefore steered north 55° west (magnetic), which I judged would take me between and clear of those two undesirable localities. The route I followed is almost level, and is only subject to low flooding (a foot or two) in a very few places. It is fairly well timbered and tolerably well watered. There is a low granite range between camps 4 and 5, but it is not as high as the ridge on which the Brisbane signal station stands and would be insignificant if it were not for the large blocks of granite which are scattered all over it and which would have to be removed to permit of the passage of drays or waggons.
From this range to the Stewart River the country is well timbered, well watered, and practically level. From the Stewart River to the Coen River is ridgy, but drays have been already over this country. It is well watered and enough of timber for our line will be found. There is a cattle station (Messrs. Massy's Lalla Rookh) on one of the heads of the Stewart River which would supply beef to the party constructing the line. The country is flat between Princess Charlotte's Bay and my route. This would enable a contractor to have his material landed at the bay and from thence carried on to the line, which would, of course, save many miles of land carriage.
At the Stewart River another road to the sea could be easily made for the carriage of material. The divide of the York Peninsula is crossed between the Stewart and Coen Rivers, and therefore all material for the northern portions of the line, which is not carried from Princess Charlotte's Bay or the Stewart, would have to be landed on the Carpentaria side of the peninsula. There are lofty and insurmountable ranges along the eastern seaboard north of the Stewart River.
From the Coen, which is really one of the heads of the Archer, I struck for the head of the Peach at Mount Croll. We found an almost level gap between the waters of the Coen and the Peach. Timber for the line will also be found here. I then followed the Peach River down on its southern side, thereby avoiding the numerous creeks which fall into it from the north. Timber was plentiful here also; water by no means scarce.
I crossed the Peach just below camp 15, where there is a tolerably good crossing with good high banks which show no trace of flooding. From camp 15 I had to traverse entirely unknown country, but I judged that the western fall of the Geikie range would prove to be level, or nearly level, country. The country subsequently traversed has proved that my surmise was correct. After crossing the Peach I went due westward, through the gap in the Geikie range, through which the Peach flows. To my surprise and satisfaction, I found this gap also practically level, and well timbered. The grass is not too good on the route I followed, but camels and others would probably find better pasturage nearer the river.
From camp 16 I struck nearly north, passing over level, well-grassed box country for about twenty miles. Timber is not too good on these box flats, but it is always so; whenever there is good timber there is poor pasturage/ Whenever the latter is good the former is indifferent. I think, however, that enough of poles for building the line may be found. From camp 16 to camp 19 water is scarce and it would be well if this portion of the line were constructed as soon after a wet season as was possible. From camp 19 northwards for many miles water is found at reasonable intervals, but the grass becomes again indifferent. Timber is also plentiful.
Just beyond camp 21 we crossed the Coen River (this is the true Coen), a fine wide running stream. A good crossing, with banks which show no indications of floods span about twelve chains.
Northwards of the Coen there is a rather long stretch of country (about twenty miles) without water and not too well timbered portion of this distance is very heavy sand undermined by ants. From our camp 23, the line should keep rather to the westward of my route as far as camp 27, by which the poor ridgy country and the swamps crossed by me would be avoided. Timber would also be more plentiful and of a better description. From this camp to the mouth of the Batavia River would be, perhaps thirty miles, all tolerably level country. The Batavia would be a convenient place for landing material for the construction of the line. I had intended to examine the country to the Batavia River but the condition of my horses rendered it impossible as they were rapidly becoming weak and l did not know what difficulties I had before me.
As things turned out I did wisely in abandoning my proposed deviation to the mouth of the Batavia. I have ascertained from reliable authorities — namely, Messrs. F. Jardine, Chester, and Favenc - that the river is navigable for good-sized vessels for about twenty miles from the mouth. From camp 28 northward to the eleventh parallel of latitude, I fear that no matter in which direction the line is carried, it will have to cross the desert country traversed by me. This will be undoubtedly the most difficult portion of the line to construct. There is cypress pine and some other timber growing on the banks of the larger creeks but most of these timbers are large. Some poles can undoubtedly be got, but I think iron will have to be used also.
After passing the eleventh parallel the country and the timber improves. The line would come out on the shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria, near a creek known by some as the Little River, but which Mr. Jardine informed me should be called Cowal Creek. We crossed this creek at the mouth by a rocky bar, which can only be forded at low water. Higher up a crossing which can be forded at all times may be found, but going higher up will render it necessary to pass through much more scrub than by the route which I travelled.
From Cowal Creek to the proposed site of the cable station would be about eleven miles over good country but intersected by narrow belts of dense scrub, vines, etc. This country is described on the Admiralty chart as being "low and wooded, and intersected by numerous saltwater creeks." This description is utterly wrong, as there are no saltwater creeks to be crossed but Cowal Creek. Timber for poles can be found along this piece of country. Mr. R. L. Jack travelled along the coast northward from Temple Bay after endeavouring to get on the coast at or near Cape Sidmouth and Cape Weymouth. The country traversed by him is more barren and unpromising than that on my route. It is also much more broken.
South of Cape Weymouth lofty ranges follow the coast line, and are not far distant from it. By keeping the line closer to the coast, larger rivers would have to be crossed than by keeping almost on the divide, as I did. The Messrs. Jardine travelled along the western or Gulf coast, and a description of the country traversed by them could be gathered from their journal. At the river now known as the Batavia they were forced to go to the eastward as they could not find water for their stock. They also passed through a poison country where they lost nearly all their horses. The horses I had which stood the work best were those which had been in the Cook district for years. Two which I bought, and which had only arrived a few weeks before by steamer, went first, then the overland horses went next.
As soon as I can prepare it, I will furnish you with a chart of my route, showing also the (in my opinion) best route for the proposed line, the position of the repairing stations, terminal station, &c. This chart, however, will occupy me for some considerable time, as it is on a large scale. The fourteen horses which I left at Somerset Mr. F. Jardine has promised to look after.
J. R. Bradford, Inspector of Lines and Mail